Active ingredients, mechanisms of action and efficacy tests of antipollution cosmetic and personal care products

Urban population around the globe is direct exposed to the pollution caused by several sources (vehicles, industries, smokes etc.) and primary pollutants are divided in particulate matter and toxic gases. Current researches in populous countries indicated that exposure to pollution could affect sebum composition, stratum corneum quality and signs of skin aging. Hair and scalp are also affected by the excessive exposure to pollutants, resulting in a dull, dry and lifeless appearance. Cosmetics have been evolved conceptual and scientifically to achieve substantial effectiveness against pollution damaging on the cutaneous tissue, involving the development of innovative multipurpose active ingredients and efficacy tests, skilled to prove the protection and benefits of such personal care products. In this review, we highlighted the skin and hair/scalp damages provoked by the main environmental pollutants and the active substances used in antipollution cosmetics/personal care products with the respective mechanisms of action. Likewise, in vitro and in vivo efficacy tests were discussed concerning the antipollution claim substantiating

Hydrolyzed collagen interferes with in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens

ABSTRACT The chronological skin aging is a progressive and natural process with genetic and physiological changes. However, ultraviolet (UV) radiation may accelerate the oxidative stress, generating carcinogenesis and photoaging. Natural compounds and their applications are considered a trend in the cosmetic market. The protein-based film-forming compounds play an important role, once it collaborates for the better distribution of sunscreens on the skin. Here we investigated the in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens containing the hydrolyzed collagen associated with UVA, UVB and/or inorganic filters. Sunscreens were developed with octocrylene (7.5%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) (3.0%) and/or titanium dioxide (5.0%), associated or not with the hydrolyzed collagen (3.0%). In vitro photoprotective effectiveness was determined in a Labsphere(r) UV2000S by the establishment of the sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) values. Physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics were also assayed. The hydrolyzed collagen subjectively improved the formulation sensory characteristics. However, this bioactive compound led to a decrease of the SPF values of the photoprotective formulations containing octocrylene alone and octocrylene + butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + TiO2. This inadequate interaction may be considered during the development of new sunscreens intended to contain protein-based components.

Gelatin-based microspheres crosslinked with glutaraldehyde and rutin oriented to cosmetics

ABSTRACT Glutaraldehyde (GTA) has been extensively used as a gelatin crosslinking agent, however, new natural ones have been suggested as more biocompatible. Polyphenols are possible candidates and the flavonols, such as rutin (RUT), also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics. In this work, gelatin microspheres (M0) were obtained and crosslinked with GTA 10 mM (MG) or RUT 10 mM (MR), dissolved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M (70:30 v/v). MG exhibited crosslinking extent of 54.4%. Gelatin, M0, MG and MR did not elicit any signs of skin damage, regarding the formation of erythema, the barrier function disruption and negative interference in the stratum corneum hydration. Oily dispersions containing M0, MG or MR, isolated or combined with benzophenone-3 or octyl methoxycinnamate, suggested that the microspheres, at a 5.0% w/w, had no additional chemical or physical photoprotective effect in vitro. Crosslinking with RUT had occurred, but in a lower degree than GTA. Microspheres had not improved sun protection parameters, although, non-treated gelatin interfered positively with the SPF for both UV filters. The in vivo studies demonstrated that these materials had very good skin compatibility.

Cutaneous biocompatible rutin-loaded gelatin-based nanoparticles increase the SPF of the association of UVA and UVB filters.

The encapsulation of natural ingredients, such as rutin, can offer improvements in sun protection effectiveness. This strategy can provide enhanced flavonoid content and produces an improved bioactive compound with new physical and functional characteristics. As an alternative to common synthetic-based sunscreens, rutin-entrapped gelatin nanoparticles (GNPs) were designed and associated with ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA (EHDP), ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDBM) in sunscreen formulations. The purpose of this study was to develop rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles and characterize their physicochemical, thermal, functional and safety properties. Rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles increased antioxidant activity by 74% relative to free-rutin (FR) solution. Also, this new ingredient upgraded the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) by 48%, indicating its potential as a raw material for bioactive sunscreens. The safety profile indicated that GNPs and glutaraldehyde (GTA) decreased HaCaT cell viability in a concentration/time-dependent manner. However, both blank nanoparticles (B-NC) and rutin-loaded nanoparticles (R-NC) had good performance on skin compatibility tests. These results functionally characterized rutin-loaded nanoparticles as a safe SPF enhancer in sunscreens, especially in association with UV filters.

Safety and efficacy evaluation of gelatin-based nanoparticles associated with UV filters.

The safety and efficacy assessment of nanomaterials is a major concern of industry and academia. These materials, due to their nanoscale size, can have chemical, physical, and biological properties that differ from those of their larger counterparts. The encapsulation of natural ingredients can provide marked improvements in sun protection efficacy. This strategy promotes solubility enhancement of flavonoids and yields an improved active ingredient with innovative physical, physicochemical and functional characteristics. Rutin, a flavonoid, has chemical and functional stability in topical vehicles exerting a synergistic effect in association with ultraviolet (UV) filters. However, the solubility of rutin is a limiting factor. Additionally, this bioactive compound does not have tendency to permeate across the stratum corneum. As an alternative to common synthetic based sunscreens, rutin-entrapped gelatin nanoparticles were designed. The present study investigated the pre-clinical safety of gelatin nanoparticles (GNPs) using an in vitro method and also assessed the clinical safety and efficacy of the association of GNPs with three commonly used chemical UV filters (ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and methoxydibenzoylmethane). The non-irritant and adequate safety profile under sun-exposed skin conditions of the nanomaterials and the emulsions qualified the products for clinical efficacy assays. The in vivo results indicated that the GNPs increased the antioxidant protection of the emulsions developed. However, the presence of rutin in the nanosized material did not enhance performance on the SPF test. In conclusion, these findings characterized the nanomaterials as an innovative platform for multifunctional bioactive sunscreens.

Desenvolvimento, avaliação da segurança e eficácia clínica de sistemas nanoparticulados de gelatina contendo rutina / Development, safety assessment and clinical efficacy of rutin nanoparticulate gelatin systems

A associação de filtros solares a compostos bioativos tem sido estudada com ênfase na última década. Contudo, a solubilidade limitada dos compostos naturais, tais como a rutina, restringe o desenvolvimento de preparações cosméticas seguras, funcionais e estáveis. A proposta deste estudo envolveu a obtenção de nanoestruturas de gelatina (contendo ou não rutina) para aplicação em protetores solares. Os objetivos específicos foram: (1) preparar partículas de gelatina; (2) realizar a caracterização física, físico-química, morfológica, térmica e funcional (in vitro); (3) avaliar a citotoxicidade e a penetração/permeação curtânea in vitro dos sistemas; (4) desenvolver fotoprotetores bioativos de eficácia estimada in vitro; e (5) determinar a segurança e eficácia clínica fotoprotetora das preparações contendo as estruturas proteicas. As nanopartículas apresentaram-se esféricas e com diâmetro médio e índice de polidispersividade variando entre 318,9 ± 6,9 (B-NC) a 442,8 ± 4,9 nm (R-NC) e 0,06 ± 0,03 (B-NC) a 0,12 ± 0,01 (R-NC), respectivamente. Os valores do potencial zeta apresentaram-se entre -28,5 ± 0,9 mV (B-NC) e -26,6 ± 0,5 mV (R-NC). R-NC apresentou eficiência de associação equivalente a 51,8 ± 1,4%. Os ensaios de segurança das nanopartículas evidenciaram perfil citotóxico adequado para aplicação cosmética, bem como, a ausente tendência de penetração/permeação cutânea. Tendo em vista os resultados obtidos in vitro, as nanopartículas contendo rutina apresentaram capacidade antioxidante 74% superior à rutina em seu estado livre e contribuíram para o aumento de 48% do fator de proteção solar (FPS) quando associada à avobenzona (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), ao p-metoxicinamato de octila (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) e ao octil dimetil PABA (ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA). A avaliação da eficácia clínica das formulações evidenciou a influência da nanopartícula, sem adição do flavonoide, na proteção da pele contra a formação do eritema UV induzido. Por meio da avaliação dos aspectos funcionais, foi possível constatar, in vitro e in vivo, que a adição das nanopartículas em sistemas fotoprotetores influenciou seu perfil de transmitância da radiação UV, bem como, seus efeitos sobre o eritema UV induzido. Os resultados obtidos apresentaram perspectivas de aplicação prática no desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos fotoprotetores associados a substâncias bioativas, por meio de plataforma nanotecnológica

Especially, in the last decade, the association of chemical filters and bioactive compounds has been studied by several authors. However, the limited solubility of natural compounds, such as rutin restricts the development of safe and stable cosmetic preparations. The aim of this work was the development of gelatin nanoparticles (with or without rutin) as an ingredient in sunscreens. The specific goals were: (1) the development of rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles; (2) to perform the physical, physical-chemical, morphological, thermal and functional (in vitro) analysis; (3) to assess the cytotoxicity and skin penetration / permeation in vitro of the nanoparticles; (4) to develop bioactive sunscreens and to perform the in vitro photoprotection efficacy assay; and (5) to evaluate the in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) of the formulations. The nanoparticles were spherical with an average size and polydispersive index between 318.9 ± 6.9 nm (B-NC) at 442.8 nm ± 4.9 (R-NC), and 0.06 ± 0, 03 (B-NC) to 0.12 ± 0.01 (R-NC). The zeta potential values were high and negative, ranging from - 28.5 ± 0.9 mV (B-NC) and -26.6 ± 0.5 mV (R-NC). R-NC entrapment efficient was 51.8 ± 1.4%. The nanoparticle safety assessment showed a cytotoxic profile suitable for cosmetic application, as well as the absent trend of penetration/ permeation of the skin. The in vitro results indicated that the rutin-loaded gelatin nanoparticles increased 74% the antioxidant profile in comparison with free rutin and also increased 48% the SPF (in vitro) when combined with butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA. The assessment of the clinical efficacy assays showed the influence of blank nanoparticle in the protection of the skin against UV-induced erythema response. It was established in vitro and in vivo that the addition of gelatin nanoparticles in sunscreens influenced its UV transmittance profile, as well as its anti-erythema effects on the skin. The results have practical application in the development of sunscreen with bioactive ingredients and at the design of an innovative ingredient with a chemopreventive profile